Wine of the Day February 23, 2014

2010vonBuhlGG2010 Reichsrat von Buhl, Riesling, Reiterpfad Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz Germany.
One of the top and all organic estates in the Pfalz, and in Germany, von Buhl makes some amazing and finely crafted wines, especially their terroir driven Grosses Gewachs Reiterpfad Ruppersberg, this biodynamic beauty is one of the great wines of the region. This intense Riesling showcases the difficult vintage with grace and transparency, while stiff and austere it still manages to fulfill it’s potential with complexity and should even get better in another 3 to 5 years. The estate in Deidesheim in the Pfalz has been making wine since 1849, and is now owned by a couple of Japanese businessmen, unique in Germany and their winemaking team are all young and new generational thinking led by the dynamic Stefan Weber the estate manager. von buhl is in league with Muller-Catoir and von Winning here in the Pfalz and certainly shouldn’t be overlooked in this grand company of artisans. The 2010 von Buhl GG Reiterspfad starts with blistering acidity and dense extract, but while a bit shocking at first, with air everything comes together and the pure quality shines through, the nose is lifted by citrus blossoms, lemon zest and white tea leading to a palate of lime, apple skin, green melon and peach fruits along with steely minerals, chalk, truffle and a whiff of petrol/diesel. This wine quickly turns refined and elegant even, though the vintage is heighten and highlighted throughout and the force of the wine and acidity make this wine much less generous than the 2009, 2011 or 2012 versions I’m sure, though I must admit to be highly impressed by this 2010 and if you want high acid and density then this baby is right for you. Added layers come through in the glass, with flinty notes and exotic tropical fruit unfold as well as wet stones, briny sea shore, grapefruit seed, sour apple and tangerine. This is a wonderful dry Riesling with severe character and personality, though it’s charming nature does prove a winner in the end, drink now through 2024.
($52 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive