Grapelive Wine of the Day
By Kerry Winslow
2009 Moric Blau Fränkisch, Burgenland, Austrian Red.
In a rare moment, I couldn’t help myself and ordered a full bottle off the wine list on a whim, and surprise surprise it was a complete gem and even if it was a bit much for one person, it was enjoyed to the last drop, and that bottle was this 2009 Moric Blau Frankisch from Austria. While Austria is know for their fantastic whites, Gruner Veltliner and dry Rieslings, their reds have been gaining in popularity in recent years with people enjoying the refined style and ease of use in wines made from Zweigelt and St. Laurent, but it is Blau Frankisch that is really turning heads. Blau Frankisch, know as the “Pinot of the East” because of it’s charms and elegance when done correct, it is also called Lemberger in Germany and is grown across eastern Europe, but to date it is the Austrian versions that rise to the top. The best areas seem to be Carnuntum and the greater Burgenland region of Austria where the weather allows a longer ripening period and where the wine shows intense color and complexities. The 2009 Moric Blau Frankisch shows a deep blue/red hue and is silky rich with ripe tannins and superb length on the finish. The nose has spicy notes accenting the floral perfume and the palate is full of vigor refined and round with black cherry, plum, cranberry and lush red currant fruit with mineral notes, subtle bell pepper and fig paste. I found myself comparing it in my mind to a Loire Valley Cabernet France meets a Alto Adige Lagrein, even though it is very much it’s own wine with uniques qualities.
($32 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive