Grapelive Wine of the Week
By Kerry Winslow
2010 Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin Grand Cru Red Burgundy.
Though this beauty won’t be released for almost two years, it is worth noting that it is one to wait for and pre order if you get the chance, it certainly looks like it will be a classic, if not an all time great Burgundy to covet. A huge thank you to the people at Fredrick Wildman for allowing me a taste of this amazing barrel sample, I can tell you everyone here in San Francisco that was at this tasting are a grateful lot! After reading many reports about the 2010 vintage and glowing reviews by the likes of Jancis Robinson I was really excited to see for myself what all the hype was about, and while I’m convinced the top end wines are as good as they can get in the reds, it may prove to be an even better vintage for the whites across the board from cheap village wines to Grand Cru, where as the reds seem to really jump dramatically in quality once you hit the Premier Crus, and then another jump up in the Grand Crus, like this ultra fantastic 2010 Chambertin from Eric Rousseau, who is taking over from his father Charles, at Domaine Armand Rousseau. I understand he may add stems in small amounts and uses mostly new wood on the grand Crus, but both seem subtle in this very pure and primal Pinot Noir, and while no where near complete yet, it shows plenty and without doubt become a legend. The nose has fresh red and black fruits, violets and a touch of smoke before a palate of currant, cherry and strawberry fruits that coat the mouth and even at this stage linger on and on. There is silky tannins and firm acidity holding things together even though this baby shows a lush texture, most likely it will tighten up a ton in bottle, so be sure to keep your hands off for another few years after release, even though that means not tasting until at least 2016 or later! As with Rousseau, lots of terroir and mineral spices will come with age, so again rewards to those that are patient. I have a soft spot for Clos de la Roche, and Rousseau’s is also sublime in 2010 as are the Gevrey and Charmes, keep your eyes open for them when the come!
($400 Est.) 96-98 Points, grapelive