2011 Alfio Mozzi, Grisone Riserva, Sassella, Valtellina Superiore DOCG, Lombardy, Italy.
The beautiful and noteworthy Mozzi Grisone is a great example of mountain Nebbiolo, or as the locals call it Chiavennasca, coming from the Sassella, a village know for it’s quality, basically in Valtellina there are five Crus, Sassella, Grumello del Monte, Inferno, Valgella and Maroggia and to be a DOCG Superiore the wine must come from these villages and must be at least 90% Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo) with Rossola Nera being the other red grape, believed to be an offspring of Nebbiolo itself and related to Vespolina most likely, and or Freisa. The Valtellina wines are some of the most compelling Nebbiolo wines outside of Piedmonte’s great Barolo and Barbaresco zones, and while the DOC and DOCG Valtellina offerings, like this gorgeous Mozzi 20111 Grisone Sassella, are wonderful as is, there is also the rare and delectable Valtellina Sforzato an Amarone style Nebbiolo that maybe one of the best expressions of varietal and place I’ve ever had. The 2011 Alfio Mozzi Grisone Riserva Sassella is a seductive and perfumed wine of sublime balance and character with silky ripe tannins and layers of fruit, spice, mineral and earth starting with a heady mix of rose petals, peppery lavender and black licorice leading to a medium full palate of damson plum, black cherry, balsamic dipped strawberries, dried violets, truffle, cedar and dusty stones along with lingering currant and blueberry tartness. This vibrant and alive wine highlights the region and high elevation with lovely acidity and subtle wild remoteness that shines through in the glass, the slightly warmer vintage helps make this even more enjoyable in it’s youth, this is without question a wine to look for!
($45 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
