2009 Jerome Chezeaux, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes, Red Burgundy, France.
The 2009 Chezeaux Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes Premier cru is a lovely and stylish wine just hitting it’s stride with detailed fruit, earthy notes and floral expressions that are just awakening in this silken Burgundy. Jerome Chezeaux one of the many stars in Rosenthal’s wonderful portfolio of old world producers really impresses me with the inner beauty and elegance that shine through, much of this is the vineyards in the Cote de Nuits of which he has, like this Les Chaumes, which shows deep fruit character with layers of loamy, mineral, spice and satiny density without a heavy feel to compliment blackberry, currant and kirsch. This wine from a warm vintage has ripe tannins, hints of graphite, dried violets, wilted roses, light cedar and smoke along with a touch of poached plum and a mix of baking spices, anise and an iron rich gamey trace. This is drinking well now, though it has a fast maturing feel and changes dramatically in the glass, opening up sensually then tightening up again, but while a little fickle this Pinot Noir pleases the senses and thrills the mind at points making for a glorious moment or two. I’d guess it can’t decide to sleep a bit longer or be great! So, rather than be disappointed, I’d risk drinking in the next 3 to 5 years, as even now it has plenty of pleasure to give, but with food especially, I’m sure some bottles of this wine in the near future will be fantastic, lucky those that have it and catch it in a glorious space. The 2008 Chezeaux’s were more delicate and wildly good, these 2009 look a touch more sexy and textural, tough to chose between them, but be sure to look for the 2010 and 2012 vintages as both were big steps up!
($80-100 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
