n.v. Serge Mathieu, Select Tete de Cuvee, Brut Champagne, Avirey-Lingey, France.
Michel Jacob farms and produces the Champagne at Serge Mathieu in the Cotes des Bars, the soils are limestone, kimmeridgian like Chablis with a hardened clay structure and they have vineyards that average over 30 years, mostly Chardonnay and with a about 20% Pinot Noir on 30 acres of estate/grower vines. The Select Tete de Cuvee is a leesy and mineral laced luxury sparkling wine of richness and elegance with fine details and lovely harmony, it was aged 7 years on the lees, went through full malos and is mostly from 2006 and 2007 vintages. The mousse and pale gold color entice, but the palate gives the big wow with a ravishing personality, but ultra control and steely edges for a Champagne of such hedonistic charm and lavish feel, bright citrus notes, hazelnuts and wet stones add to the full bodied texture with pretty green apple, pear and golden fig fruits. This is very delightful, vibrant and decedent fizz and offers a great value in this pleasing style, also worth looking for is the Serge Mathieu Extra Brut made from 100% Pinot Noir might be more intriguing and vital, especially for my personal tastes, but all of this grower/producers wines are lovely, imported by Charles Neal, these Champagnes deserve attention and merit, they also go wonderfully with cuisine and should be served in prime glassware, not in flutes which hide the complexity and uniqueness of these superb efforts. The Serge Mathieu Select Tete de Cuvee is pure pleasure in the glass, it is perfect for celebrating and will entertain and seduce any Champagne lover, drink over the next 3 to 5 years, this is one of my picks for New Years Eve, and that is a tough group to get into!
($58 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
