2018 Inama, Vigneti di Carbonare, Soave Classico DOC, Veneto, Italy.
I have really enjoying the latest releases from Inama, mostly known for their brilliant Soave Classico wines like this one, as well as doing some very distinct red wines, as I have mentioned recently in my review of their Bradisismo, their Cabernet based red that also has a good dose of Carmenere in the blend. This 2018 Vigneti di Carbonare is more dense and maybe riper in style than the Foscarino, but still beautifully crisp and superbly detailed with loads of dry extract and a medium bodied palate that reveals smooth layering of citrus and stone fruits, a touch of spice and nice underlying natural acidity that keeps things taut, while allowing the pleasing vinous mouth feel to persist. I thoroughly relished this wine, especially with small bites and with creamy cheeses, it is wine that highlights the sense of place and shows just how good these 100% Garganega Soave Classico DOC wines are these days, there has never been a better time to explore this region, especially the Cru examples by Inama as well as Pieropan, they are outstanding wines. The all stainless steel fermented and aged 2018 Carbonare gives an array of flavors that includes zesty citrus, apricot, melon and a touch of apple fruits, along with a saline note, clove, wet stones and a light dusting of herbs and a lingering floral element. While Soave whites have tended to be zingy light bodied efforts, this one has more of presence in the glass and has the depth to go with a full meal, in particular it pairs very well with linguine and claims or with grilled swordfish.
The Inama’s say that the “Carbonare” is a picturesque vineyard of traditional old pergolas that captures the morning sun that overlooks a steep sided valley and perched halfway up the hillside with an eastern exposure, making this Cru site noticeably different to the Foscarino, that I reviewed last month, with its own unique microclimate. They also note that fresh air comes down from the Val d’Alpone and its Piccole Dolomiti keeping the vines refreshed, while the basalt based volcanic soils, which characterize most of the Soave Classico region, gives these wines their complexity and mineral intensity, all of which are on clear display here in this wonderfully aromatic and textural Carbonare version of Soave Classico by Inama. For the Vigneti di Carbonare Soave Classico Stefano and Matteo Inama went with, as mentioned, all stainless fermentation regime using a specially selected culture of yeast and no malo-lactic conversion, with this vintage seeing an elevage of about 12 months in tank as well as 6 months in bottle before leaving the cellars. This wine shows a fine balance and at 12.5% natural alcohol it is briskly dry, but elegantly rounded, even without malo, and can be enjoyed with or without cuisine, it makes for refreshing aperitif too. If you’ve not tried Soave, and or looking for an alternative to Sancerre, Albarino and or Pinot Grigio, it is a perfect time drink this pure and delicious example. The Garganega grape is well worth your attention, it is a varietal that never seems to get the serious consideration or acclaim it deserves, with Inama’s Soave Classico Cru offerings being excellent wines that celebrate this lesser known, praise worthy grape.
($28 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive