nv Benoit Marguet, Shaman 13, Rose Extra Brut Grand Cru Champagne, France.
BenoƮt Bonnerave is making some fantastic Champagne from his family holdings, mostly in Ambonnay, but with some parcels in Avize and Bouzy, he took over in 2009 and has gone down the natural and all biodynamic route with a claimed no sulfur winemaking. The family has had an up and down time in the region, at one time they went completely out of business selling to Henriot, before slowing building up again and mostly recently they had to sell off a huge chunk of vineyards to Krug to make ends meet, but Benoit looks to have things running smoothly and his wines are getting the attention they deserve, especially exciting is his Shaman lineup and in particular this Shaman Rose. The Shaman 13 Extra Brut Rose Grand Cru is all from the 2013 vintage and is made up of mostly Chardonnay with a little Pinot Noir for color, it is rich and lavish in mouth feel and decedent in style, but with riveting form and energy, it has almost zero sugar and still it feels full bodied and lavish with loads of brioche, steely mineral, hazelnut, light strawberry, citrus and bright cherry layers. The fine mousse and remarkable length bring out bread dough and beautiful delicate floral details in this Champagne, this is extremely stylish bubbly for the price. These Shaman Marguet Champagnes really show a finessed touch and offer really fine character and while I was stunned by this Rose Shaman 13, the Shaman 12 Extra Brut is also a lovely Champagne full of flavor and elegance, both are ultra compelling and worth looking out for.
($60 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive