2007 Domaine de Beudon, Constellation “Les Vignes Dans Le Ciel” Valais, Switzerland.
The holy grail of alpine natural wine, Domaine de Beudon was the first to convert to all biodynamic in Switzerland and Jacky Granges’ wine are highly sought after for their purity and unique style, grown on a ridiculously steep perch in Valais that either requires goat climbing abilities or a rustic/scary mini cable car ride to get to. It’s totally crazy stuff, the white wines are pressed on site and transferred in juice form from the vineyard and the reds are brought down in tanks by cables as there is no way to bring the grapes down and keep them fresh! I have only just recently had my first chance to taste Domaine de Beudon, even better I had not even known about it all, coming very late to this wine, so it was completely without expectations, and I was at first unsure of my thoughts, but the wine really grew on me and kept changing in the glass, getting more compelling by the minute, in the end I was hooked and convinced of it’s beauty. The Constellation Les Vignes Dans Le Ciel 2007, is a blend of Pinot Noir mostly with Gamay and a hybrid grape Diolinor, which is a varietal that was a crossing of Pinot Noir and a local grape, it is grown on granite, gneiss and limestone, it is aged entirely in stainless steel and was naturally fermented without filtration or additions of sulfur, it was rested in tank on it’s lees for an extend time and in bottle, the pale ruby hued 2007 is the current release. The palate is light and spicy to start, gaining a bit of weight and density with air, but it remains delightfully fresh and delicate throughout with subtle rose petal notes, pepper, minty herbs and bright cherry and raspberry fruits as well as mineral tones, dusty/chalky stones, earth and tangy red currants. The tannins have had good time to soften, but it still has a vibrant feel and firmness and it lingers with flinty spice, cinnamon, plum and anise. You have to love the absolute passion behind this wine and commitment, it’s a delicate old world charmer with satiny layers and while it takes a while to understand, it intrigues, pleases and seduces, drink from 2017 to 2024.
($56 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive

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