2015 Hirsch, Gruner Veltliner “Kammern” Kamptal Austria.
The Hirsch 2015 Gruners are an exceptional set of offerings from this Kamptal estate not far from the majestic Danube, west of Vienna, especially his Lamm Cru and this Kammern. Johannes Hirsch does all organic/biodynamic farming, using native yeasts and prefers slow cold fermentations with slightly later releases allowing the wines to develop more fully. The rocky loess and loam soils mostly are old vines facing south to take advantage of the exposure, Hirsch only works Riesling and Gruner, this intense focus and passion shows through in his wines, I have reviewed his Lamm Gruner previous and his Rieslings are stunning as well, but I needed to include the Kammern, which is a delightful and character filled Gruner Veltliner with expressive mineral charm and energy driven palate, this is wine that should not be over looked. The 2015 in Austria is proving to be a wonderful year, especially for the whites in the Wachau, with glorious stuff coming from Kremstal and Kamptal, in fact most all of Austria did great in 2015, like 2013 this is a vintage to stock up on! The Hirsch Kammern Gruner starts with white flowers, crystalline wet stones, almond paste and mixed stone fruit and citrus with lemon/lime, wild tart pear, verbena and melon as well as chalky earth, white pepper and tangy herb. This bright and zingy white is refreshing and taught, but also gives a bit more texturally than most wines in it’s class and has a lovely sense of depth and subtle richness of detail, it’s vibrant and elegant with nice poise and tension. Enjoy this well made Gruner over the next year or two, it gives the same thrill as a 1er Chablis, imported by Terry Theise, and at this price you’ll want a bunch around this Spring and Summer, this is, again, a stylish, brilliant and impressive terroir wine, do not miss.
($26 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive
