2014 Chateau Thivin, Clos de Rochebonne, Beaujolais Blanc, France.
Claude Geoffray’s stylish and unique Chardonnay, a Beaujolais Blanc from 50 year old vines that have their roots in limestone, gravel and mineral intense soils, delivers class and character that see it perform at a level that demands attention and praise. The Thivin Blanc from near Brouilly is a beautiful offering that is similar to White Burgundies from the Maconnais, I’d say it is close in personality to a better Saint-Veran with bright fruit, steely mineral and stony throughout along with subtle creaminess. Geoffrey uses neutral cask for a short period prior to bottling, but mostly this Chardonnay sees clear tank aging with a hint of lees. The nose is lightly floral, white flowers and citrus lead along with pear, lemon/lime, melon and tart apple fruits on the very charming palate which is vibrant and barely medium-bodied with hints of saline infused rock, hazelnut, raw butter and spiced honey. The vivid acidity keeps things pure and fresh all the way in this wonderfully judged white, this is very balanced, focused and poised Chardonnay that drinks above it’s origins and price point, one of the finest Beaujolais Blancs I’ve tasted to date, it is definitely worth searching out, imported by Kermit Lynch, who knows a fair bit about desirable Chardonnay… Drink the 2014 Thivin Clos de Rochebonne over the next couple of years, best from 2016 to 2020.
($26 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive
