2013 Domaine Maume-Marchand-Tawse, Gevrey-Chambertin, En Pallud, Red Burgundy, France.
Pascal Marchand’s right hand man and winemaker Mark Fincham has crafted a magical Pinot Noir in a vintage that seems to be getting overlooked, but has some wonderful surprises, just like this new Maume beauty. Finch was trusted with getting the best out of the En Pallud and he delivered with an expressive and detailed Burgundy of character and classic style with clear/transparent layers of pure Pinot fruit, mineral and silken textures. While the Marchand 2012’s still have closed firm tannins holding them back, these 2013 are shinning and offer gorgeous satiny fruit and floral tones, and though they seem lighter at first give great length and impressive extract while preserving freshness, these are heavenly wines, especially the Domaine Maume-Marchand-Tawse En Pallud and the 2013 Maison Marchand-Tawse Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perriere. The Marchand influenced or Fincham Maume wines are much cleaner examples than old Maume, some will not recognize the linage, though you’ll admire the attention to vines and terroir, and you’ll not have to wait decades to enjoy these new wines. The 2013 Maume En Pallud starts with earthy roses, red currants, dried violets and flinty mineral leading to a palate of medium weight showing tangy bing cherry, plum and raspberry fruit. Complexity? Well, it feels dreamy and forward, hiding the complexity in pleasure, but the background holds loamy/chalky stones, saline, pipe tobacco and stylishly subtle wood shading with just a hint of vanilla and smoke. This wine firms up in the glass and the bright acidity never lets this Gevrey dull and reminds you of Pinot Noir’s majestic presence and emotional response. Light anise, tea spice and strawberry linger on the finish of this ruby hued nectar and I can only see it getting better over the next 5 to 10 years, look for a bit more dark fruit and savory elements to emerge in the next few years, drink from 2017-2025, be sure to give these sensual and finessed Marchand-Tawse 2013’s a try!
($75 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive
