2013GanevatPleinSud2013 Domaine Ganevat, Plein Sud, Trousseau, Cotes du Jura, France.
This 2013 Jean-Francois Ganevat Trousseau is wildly amusing, wonderfully exotic, delicate and perfumed, it’s hard to imagine a more lovely example of this Jura varietal. J-F’s Plein Sud comes from organic vines grown on steep rocky soils that are set of grey marl, or Jurassic limestone, the site is facing south getting good exposure, the winemaking is restrained and natural, Genevat’s reds are light and dreamy, it’s his whites that show the most power and intensity, but this Trousseau is my favorite of his lineup of reds and especially in this vintage. Opening the 2013 Ganevat Plein Sud Trousseau Cotes du Jura is a magical experience, except for the flaky wax that gets everywhere and requires zen like patience, lucky though is the fact that after the cork is pulled a heavenly floral array of scents greets you followed by sexy earthy spices lifting from this pale beauty. The glass reveals the slightly cloudy, barely ruby hue of this Jura Trousseau, this is haunting stuff that you cannot wait to dive into, at just 12% it is fully ripe and complete with layers of complexity and textural wonderment. This is why we geek out on Trousseau, and why it has seen a explosion of popularity, and wineries in California getting into the Trousseau business, the two finest examples to date being maybe Arnot-Roberts and Sandlands, and look out for Stolpman’s Combe, these are all very cool expressions. Back to the J-F Ganevat Plein Sud, the nose brings rose oil, lavender, lilac and white pepper along with pink guava leading to a palate of crushed strawberry, vine picked raspberry, tart cherry, dried red currants and a bit of peach/plum stone fruit flesh as well as a hint of leather, walnut and flinty/dusty earth. This light bodied red is graceful and silken with super smooth tannins and acidic lift and dry saline elements, the heady aromatic attack is balanced by savory underpinning and graceful focus, I’d rate it higher if it wasn’t so rare and pricy, but it is worth it and well worth the pain and suffering to acquire this gorgeous wine. The lingering rose petals and tropical guava note stay with you for ages, drink this Trousseau whenever you can or want, best from 2016 to 2022, and be sure not to overlook Ganevat’s excellent Pinot Noir and stunning whites, especially the 2012 Chards!
($60 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive

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