2014durochegcclos2014 Domaine Duroche, Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Clos” Red Burgundy, France.
The Duroche Gevrey Les Clos is a stylish and deep red Burgundy with classic Cote de Nuits dark fruit character and even as young as it is shows remarkably well with palate density and complex vitality. This was an impressive find for Beaune Imports and one of the stars of their Fall portfolio tasting in San Francisco, I had never tried Domaine Duroche prior to this and I’ll be sure keep an eye out for them now, from what I have read, the estate has mostly holdings within Gevrey-Chambertin with a number of Village, Premier Cru and a few Chambertin Grand Cus, including a slice of Lavaut St. Jacques and Beze with the wines now being made by 5th generation winemaker Pierre Duroche, who recently took over from his father Gilles after the 2008 vintage. Pierre’s wines have, as I discovered, a sense of intensity and depth that put them in that elite group of Burgundy that demand your attention and move you with emotion, these are special wines of great class and grace, I would put them somewhere between Mortet and Armand Rousseau, which is high praise and a statement to the quality I tasted here. I tried the 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin (basic) along with Pierre’s gorgeous, but tight 2014 Lavaux St. Jacques Premier Cru Gevrey and of which I might write more about later, as well as this Village Les Clos Gevrey-Chambertin that was showing somewhat more open and expressive on the day with floral notes, spicy black fruit and subtle earthy tones. The poise and restrained tension gives the impression of controlled power and while satiny on the palate there is a good structure and grip to found in Duroche’s Gevrey-Chambertin Les Clos, it was all de-stemmed, native yeast fermented and saw about 20% new oak, pretty standard in artisan Burgundy, but the terroir and nature of place really shines in this wine and it makes an instant impact, this is serious stuff. The palate flows in velvety layers, even with the youthful acidity and tannins with black cherry, currant, tangy plum and bright raspberry fruits form the core here along with mineral and subtle earth, tea and baking spices, light wood notes, dried violets, rosewater and touch of game. Drink this lovely Burgundy from 2018 to 2030, this is a Domaine to start following, Pierre’s wines put to shame lots of wines that cost twice the price!
($57 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive

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