2020 Filipa Pato & William Wouters, Baga “Dinamico” Vinho Tinto, Bairrada D.O.C., Portugal.
One of my favorite producers in Portugal, Filipa Pato, along with her husband, Belgian sommelier and restaurateur William Wouters, make what they call vinhos autênticos sem maquilagem, which translates to ‘Authentic Wines Without Makeup.’ and use only ancient native varietals like Baga, the grape in this lovely little red wine wine from her home region of Bairrada. The no wood Dinamico Vinho Tinto is deliciously fresh and a ridiculous bargain, it delivers a ripe and vibrant array of racy red fruits on the medium bodied palate, along with zingy acidity, like a Gamay or Pinot Noir, spice and mineral notes, it way over performs for the price, which puts in with some generic and or bland stuff, making this wine even more attractive. The 2020 version has brandied cherry, plum, strawberry and earthy cranberry fruits, as well as a touch of saline, leather, all spice, blood orange and dried lavender notes. Filipa could be considered a star in the wine world along the lines of a Arianna Occhipinti or Elisabetta Foradori, working her estate with biodynamic practices, and with very minimal-intervention or natural winemaking in the cellar and with a focus of local and historic grapes to the region. The use of different sites in this wine helps round out the personality with the clay and limestone soils producing Baga with lighter tannins and more depth of concentration, whereas the schist-based soils produce firmer tannins and some highlight the spice and mineral dimension. This is certainly a wine without make up, it is raw and pure with good balance, for those that like old world and authentic regional wines will very much enjoy this Dinamico Vinho Tinto and I highly recommend Pato’s wines.
The 100% Baga “Dinamico” Vinho Tinto, Bairrada D.O.C. by Filipa Pato is sourced partially from Filipa and William’s estate vineyards in Ois do Bairro, and partially from other growers in various villages in the Bairrada zone. For this cuvée Filipa uses 100% handpicked and fully de-stemmed grapes that are all organic with native yeast fermentation employed and it is raised entirely in tank with a very gentle extraction to promote absolute purity of terroir and varietal. Filipa, who is intensely passionate about her region of the unique varietals here, like this Baga, as well as Bical, Cercial and Maria Gomes, the main local white grapes found in Bairrada, does a beautiful series of single varietal wines, plus some amazingly tasty sparkling wines that include a blend of these grapes, especially good is her 3B Extra Brut Rosé. Pato use of various plots throughout the Bairrada appellation and of individual terroirs make all of her wines very singular and distinct, with this one highlighting the Atlantic continental climate and nature exceptionally well. The soils here, in the Bairrada DOC, set slightly inland are mainly of the limestone and clay types, but with some schist and alluvial areas too, all of which Baga enjoys and helps give the Pato wines their complexity and noted age worthy (longevity), in particular the thin-skinned Baga grape wines, which sometimes are compared to a combination of Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir. This vividly ruby/garnet Baga is a crisply dry red wine that has plenty of charm and flexibility for cuisine options, going with lots of dishes from pizza/pasta to grilled octopus, and it can be served with a slight chill too for outdoor dining or sipping. For a little more seriousness, depth and distinction try Pato’s single cru versions as well, they can pretty special, in particular the amphora raised Post-Quercus bottling.
($16 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive