2012 Fattorie Romeo del Castello, Vigo, Etna Rosso DOC, Sicily, Italy.
Chiara Vigo’s Nerello Mascalase from the slopes of the Volcano is a ripe and powerful version of varietal and place with deep intensity and glorious dark fruit. In this vintage I think you’d have to say the Vigo is Grand Cru like much more Richebourg than Volnay in style, since most critics call Nerello Mascalase the Burgundy of Sicily. The 2012 Fattorie Romeo del Castello Vigo, from a single parcel of vines called La Fruttiera, is rich and sweet fruited example with about 14.5%, it is no light-weight, but it still flows with silky tannins and graceful detail with loads of spicy/flinty mineral charm, this is very serious stuff and it drinks majestically with regal depth and density. The nose starts with crushed stones, ash and dried flowers along with spiced plum leading to a medium/full palate of blackberry, sweet and tangy currants, damson plum and black cherry fruit with notes of shale, iron, cedar and grilled fennel. As the wine opens it gains lavish mouth feel and a sexy mure, kirsch or framboise element comes through and while the sweet tannins and fruit seduces there is a nice cut of acidity and vibrant complexity of mineral and spice with subtle pepper flakes, chalk dust, roasted herbs and anise to be found. This is certainly one of the most flamboyant offerings from Fattorie Romeo del Castello and is an amazing and entertaining expression of Etna, this is gorgeous and exotic Nerello Mascalase, drink over the next 3 to 10 years, best from 2016 to 2022.
($44 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
