2016 Weingut Spreitzer, Riesling Feinherb, Winkeler Jesuitengarten, Alte Reben, Rheingau Germany.
One of the my favorite Rieslings of the 2016 vintage so far is Spreitzer’s dense Jesuitegarten Alte Reben, think of it as a more generous GG with a touch of off dry lustiness with a rich character and amazing focus! From vines not far from the Rhein on a mix of loess, sand and gravel, the Jesuitegarten benefits from an almost lake effect, since this site sits near the river’s widest point and it vines ripen earlier here, making for opulent Rieslings, but still with vibrant acidity and crystalline mineralite. Less fruity than the Kabinett and Spatlese, the Alte Reben Jesuitegarten feels dry on the palate, but has what I call lush intensity with an almost full body feel, or as Terry Theise says, it’s chewy, and it drinks like a red wine with the massive extract and structure adding a counter weight to the lavish fruit core, regardless of what this wine is labeled, it’s a Grand Cru class white with gorgeous detail and length. This Riesling is beautiful, curvy and tom boy like, just think of Scarlett Johansson in a glass. The 2016 Spreitzer Feinherb Jesuitegarten Alte Reben is riveting from start to finish with a heady bouquet of spring flowers, sea shore and citrus which leads to a textured palate of green apple, mango, pineapple, lime sorbet, apricot and white cherry fruits with hints of saline/brine, wet stones, spiced herbal tea, verbena, sweet melon flesh, rosewater and lingering tangerine. This open and stylish Riesling delivers a rush of elegant pleasure and should go decades, this is super impressive and a value, if you’ve not had Spreitzer in recent vintages you are missing out, my visit to the winery last fall was mind-blowing and while I thought 2015 raised their game to the next level, these 2016 wines take it even further, Andreas and Bernd are killing it! Imported by Terry Theise and Skurnik Wines, these 2016 Spreitzer’s are coming online as I speak, but with the GG’s coming later in the year, these are seriously awesome Rieslings, especially this Jesuitegarten Feinherb, but also look for the dry Rosengarten GG and the Muschelkalk Trocken, as well as the sweeter Kabinett and Spatlese offerings which look set to be classics.
($33 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive

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