2020 Domaine Tessier, Bourgogne Blanc “Champ Perrier” Burgundy, France.
Arnaud Tessier, who after his father’s untimely death in around 2009 took over this little known domaine, is gaining some big notoriety as an outstanding producer in the Meursault region. This single parcel Bourgogne Blanc is a beautiful, pale gold and deep Chardonnay, punching way above its weight in terms of quality and depth with lovely vinous layering and steely mineral notes. The palate is textured and terroir driven beyond what you’d expect from regular Bourgogne Blanc bottling, showing off lemon, apple, peach and pear fruits along with leesy richness, matchstick, hazelnut, wet stone, clove spice and subtle wood influence. This wine comes from a single lieu-dit in the village of Puligny-Montrachet, on the Meursault border, with 45 plus year old vines set on the Côte de Beaune clay and chalky limestone soils, which gives this Champ Perrier its soulful and exciting personality. The vineyard work is done by hand with holistic methods and fully organic with, as the winery notes, careful ploughing by horse. I’m still just getting to know the wines here at Tessier, but I really would love to try their Meursault 1er ‘Les Genevrieres’, which I bet is a thrilling offering!
Meursault’s Arnaud and Catherine Tessier are running their small domaine, with prime parcels including holdings in Meursault Les Charmes-Dessus, Meursault Genevrieres-Dessus, along with some excellent plots in Meursault Poruzots and Meursault Casse Têtes, all farmed with an organic focus and they are committed to sustainable viticulture, preferring to spend most of their times in the vineyards. In the cellar, Arnaud, who starting winegrower at 14 years old and took over this estate at 21, is a no nonsense winemaker, using indigenous yeast for the fermentation and as the winery notes, he allows the wines a lengthy and slow elevage. This Champ Perrier Bourgogne Blanc, which was 100% barrel fermented and aged, with this vintage seeing a full 12 months in the oak, just 10% new, and then another half a year in stainless steel vats before being bottled. This wine is a killer bargain, especially in an exotic and expressive vintage like 2020, making this wine a no brainer and it should mature nicely in bottle for another 3 to 5 years, though super enjoyable now, no waiting required. I suggest stocking up on this engaging white Burgundy and enjoying it with soft creaming farm cheeses, fleshy fish, salmon and or swordfish, which will bring out the pedigree in this wine.
($35 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive