2020 Enrico Serafino – Poggio delle Rupe, Gavi DOCG, Monterotondo, Piedmonte, Italy.
The beautifully detailed crisp Gavi white from the Monterotondo zone, on unique white marls, one of the most recognized cru areas of the region, by the historic Enrico Serafino winery’s Poggio della Rupe tiny estate single vineyard, making for a distinctive and elegantly textured wine that drinks on the same level as a Premier Cru white Burgundy, but with pure Cortese character. Gavi, 100% Cortese, has seen a huge surge in popularity and quality in recent years, once a mere curiosity these wines now deliver depth, complexity and style not seen more before, except in rare exceptions, with some wines providing inspiration to raise the game here. The Enrico Serafino winery does two versions of Gavi, the Grifo del Quartaro DOCG and this Poggio delle Rupe, which I just had recently, and was very impressed with its bright citrus intensity, mineral tones, expanding viscosity, zesty acidity and bitter almond note all of which provides tension and balance. The medium bodied palate is pristinely clear with tart peach, lemon/lime, quince and green apple fruits, accented perfectly with chalky and saline rich stony elements, leesy like nuttiness and mouth feel and a with light herbal and floral notes.
The Enrico Serafino winery, famous for their Barolo, was originally founded back in 1878 in the peaceful hamlet of Canale d’Alba, one of the main towns in the Roero region of Piemonte, not far from Alba and on continuous marls and sandy soils that make for great and powerful Nebbiolo wines. The estate is not a one trick pony, as this fresh and distinctive white from the Gave zone proves, but also Enrico Serafino has been leaders in the production of Metodo Classico sparkling wines, which in no small way contributed to the formation and recognition of the Alta Langa DOCG, for these high quality bubblies. Since the Krause family, who purchased the winery in 2015, took over things have really turned around and the quality has risen to levels not seen seen here and the vines have realized their potential with the extra care and passion that has been put into this estate, which had fallen into disarray. You can see the progress, with the direction of President Nico Conta and Winemaker Paolo Giacosa really making an impact as they introduce innovation, renovation with sustainable farming methods and modern technology to the vineyards and the cellars. The Gavi offerings here are transparent and refreshing wines, with this Poggio delle Rupe, made with its terroir and special micro-climate in mind with stainless steel fermentation and aging with a short lees contact and a quick bottling to preserve vitality, it is a wine that loves fresh sea food cuisine and or soft farm cheeses.
($42 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive