2016 Weingut Selbach-Oster, Riesling Trocken “Bömer” Zeltinger Schlossberg, Mosel Germany.
This Bömer Trocken is amazingly perfumed, really highly aromatic at this stage, much more so than when I tried the cask sample (a year ago), it is full of jasmine, rose oil and citrus blossom with a mineral tone and peachy, but the wine is wonderfully lively, fresh and tangy with loads of dry extract and a light body at this stage, the delicacy is simply dreamy. Johannes Selbach’s 2016’s are remarkable wines, and I’m a huge fan of the Zeltinger Schlossberg site, it is magic and this single block “Bömer” is stunning in detail and unbelievably sexy on the palate with layers of apricot, white peach, passionfruit and tangerine/lime fruits, with a crystalline beauty, as well as flinty shale, verbena, minty tea, candied dried mango and saline notes in a refined Riesling that way over delivers, it’s a class act all the way. Zeltinger Schlossberg is a steep vineyard set on pure blue Devonian slate with the Bömer block being a parcel that sits directly behind the village of Zeltingen, it faces south east and gets reflected light from the Mosel and heat from the town’s rooftops which helps with ripening and the opulent flavors. I wonder if Selbach should join the VDP for his dry Riesling offerings, as this certainly would make for a Grand Cru in my opinion, but then again the price is outstanding the way it is without that GG on the bottle, still it’s an interesting question. That said, Selbach-Oster’s strength is the balance achieved with generous sugar levels and their fruity Spatlese and Auslese wines are some of the best in Germany. The “Bömer” is a gorgeous Riesling that should not be missed, it offers exceptional quality and stylistic charm with a heightened impact on the senses, it’s a brilliant dry wine, this one and Selbach’s Ur-Alte Reben Feinherb are my two absolute favorites in the lineup of greatness this Mosel winery has out right now, both will drink beautifully for years to come.
($30 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
