2012 Weingut Carl Loewen, Riesling Kabinett, Klostergarten, Mosel Germany.
The transition from father to son at Weingut Carl Loewen is going smoothly and with seamless precision, in fact the 2014 wines might be the best set from this estate, so the future with Christoph Loewen making the wine here in this Mosel estate looks fantastic. Looking back a few years to 2012, a wine overseen by Karl-Josef the father, from the grey slate of Klostergarten, the Kabinett level Riesling crafted from organic vines, it’s a showy vintage and a gorgeous wine with loads of complex fruit and minerality in a ripe, but balanced wine. Rich flavors of golden apple, lemon/lime, apricot, dried honey, rosewater and peaches in syrup play perfectly with vibrant acidity, flinty spices and smoked meat notes in a smart and seriously judged Riesling with exotic dried ginger, tropical essences, white flowers and liquid stones adding to the complexity. While very open and lush the Loewen Klostergarten Kabinett has a core of vigorous extract and power, the sweetness adds grace without being cloying, making this Riesling fantastic with food even dishes you’d want a red wine with! While the 2014’s show more detailed finesse and inner perfume, this 2012 is a more dense and sober style that is just beginning to show it’s impressive layers, this is a winery to watch and look for the 2015’s that should be hitting the market soon, they should be even better still. Drink this 2012 over the next 5 to 7 years, it is great with spicy curry, Thai beef and baked ham, it has subtle and seductive charms with classic Mosel terroir character.
($18-22 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive
