2013 Ryme “Crackling Carignane” Pétillant-Naturel Sparkling Red Wine, Testa Vineyard, Mendocino.
Ryme Cellars is the husband and wife project by Ryan and Megan Glaab, both immensely talented winemakers with an amazing background in wine, even at such young ages and Ryme reflects that, it’s a young winery with an old soul, tasting their wines is a thrilling experience. They make a wide range of wines with no dogma or fashionable pretense, from Aglianico to “His” and “Hers” versions of Vermentino, these are wines of the earth, organic, natural and made with love of California terroir, but of old world (ancient) character, in other words they are a modern throwback with native yeasts, low sulfur, well used seasoned wood (neutral French) and without fining or filtration, with many of the reds fermented whole cluster and with stems and some of the whites seeing skin contact. That brings us to this wonderfully sensual and earthy old vine Carignane Pét-Nat sparkling red wine, a wine that has similarities to a robust Lambrusco, but deeper and more textural with vibrant tiny bubbles and zesty fizz, this is one of the most serious and impressive Pét-Nats I’ve every tasted, Megan explained that they left the dark Carignane on it’s lees for two years, which certainly added the complexity and depth, and while most opt for light and charming in Pét-Nat, Ryme is more like a cross of rustic Lambrusco from Emilia in Italy and Sparkling Shiraz from Australia, though the style is unique, highlighting the varietal and California origins. Dark berries, woodsy mushrooms, dried flowers and crisp spices lead away in this robust food craving sparkling red, it even has a meaty layer to go with plum, blackberry, cherry and blueberry fruits. Lingering currant, anise, porcini and pepper notes shine through and are lifted by the natural acidity and the soft bubbly mouse. This brilliant and joyous dry Crackling Carignane Pét-Nat should be served with an intense range of food, a spicy charcuterie plate, Turkish lamb or grilled meats and friends, especially as it is only available in pop-top big bottles!
($60 Magnum Only) 93 Points, grapelive
