2012 Bibi Graetz, Soffocone di Vincigliata, IGT Rosso, Toscana, Italy.
The Graetz Soffocone is made up of single vineyard fruit, 90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo and 3% Colorino from the Fiesole zone, near Florence, it is fermented in stainless steal and aged in primarily used French barriques, it is one of my favorite guilty pleasures, and not just for it’s label and name! The label and name, which in Italian means blowjob, somehow has made it through ATF screening, much to many smiles and giggles and it has been called a very naughty wine, but forgetting this selling point, this is a superb Tuscan red that delivers almost as much pleasure as it’s name, sorry couldn’t resist… From what I understand the hills around Florence have been popular with young lovers looking for romance and a certain privacy, and Graetz has a few times discovered this near his vineyard in Fissile, and being the artist he is, he designed the label to honor these lovers. Bibi Graetz’s Fiesole vineyard Vincigliata is over 30 years old now and provides some impressive flavors and terroir, he also now does a traditionally labeled Chianti DOCG from these vines as well, first release is also like this Soffocone, a 2012, it is maybe a slight step up from the Chianti in it’s price range and deserves attention as well, plus Graetz’s top wine the Testamata is one of the top 100% Sangiovese wines available, though it comes from a small site in Grieve, Chianti Classico, plus there is a very special white wine, Bugia from the Isola del Giglio, a small Tuscan island where Graetz found an ancient Ansonica vineyard, it is a lovely, rare and intriguing wine as well. The 2012 Soffocone di Vincigliata IGT Toscana Rosso starts with a hint of sweet smoke, dried flowers, Spring herbs and earthy red fruits leading to a medium/full palate of raspberry, cherry, strawberry, black plum and tangy currant fruits along with tobacco leaf, soy sauce, minty herb, mineral notes, vanilla, anise and porcini. There is a lovely mouth feel, don’t snicker, silky tannins, a lift of acidity, even in this warm vintage everything comes together nicely with good depth of character and charm, this is a very well balanced wine, the fruit is ripe and pleasing, but controlled with good savory and earthy elements which linger on the finish with the red berry. This wine will aged, though I don’t think you want to test it’s limits in the cellar, best from 2015 to 2020
($40 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
