2022 Manoir du Capucin, Pouilly-Fuisse “Sensation” White Burgundy, France.
One of my favorites from the Mâcon, Cloé Bayon, who started her family label in 2002, makes a fine set of whites, including this stylish and mineral driven Sensation Pouilly-Fuisse that delivers a lot of bang for the buck with a steely core of apple, pear, lemon and white peach fruits, along with clove spice, wet stones, delicate leesy notes, oyster shell, bitter almond and a touch of citrus blossoms. This medium bodied and pale straw/gold white Burgundy has plenty of crisp acidity and depth, making it a compelling bottle of wine. Cloé, who after studying Oenology in Provence, came back to her family’s property and was the first of the Bayons to bottle their wines under their own label after almost a century of selling their grapes, and the world has definitely taken notice of her Chardonnay wines. I first discovered these Manoir du Capucin nearly ten years ago now with Bayon’s 2010 Aux Morlays Pouilly-Fuisse cuvee and I’ve been a fan ever since. I highly recommend these transparent and clean Chardonnays, which are outstanding values and well worth chasing down.
As I’ve noted before, Chloé Bayon, proprietor, winegrower and winemaker at Manoir du Capucin is one of the region’s stars and she is in fact President of the Pouilly-Fuisse union of growers/producers. She makes a range of wine from Mâcon to single Cru Pouilly-Fuisse, all of which show her gift with Chardonnay, this is a talented winemaker and a label to follow, I would compare her offerings to those of Domaine Robert-Denogent in terms of style and quality, this are fantastic white Burgundies. Now, with 20 plus years behind her, Cloé has created a tight and focused lineup of wines, all from sustainable grown grapes and mature vines, which give these offerings the depth and complexity to rival wines two or three times the price, especially these days with Burgundy costs skyrocketing. The historic and picturesque Manoir du Capucin, in the village of Fuisse is one of the oldest homes in the Mâconnais region, was built back in 1602, and bought by the Bayon Family in 1921. Chloé, who actually grew up in Nice, usually ages her Pouilly-Fuisse for just about a year on lees, employing mainly neutral oak, which allows the chalky/limestone soils to shine through, and this Sensation is a great way to start exploring her wines.
($36 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive