2014 Vocal, Gruner Veltliner “Alfaro Vineyard” Santa Cruz Mountains.
The Vocal Gruner by Ian Brand and Ted Glennon is remarkably dusty dry white with a brisk nature and vigorous intensity, this is an expressive wine that shows verve and bright layers. Coming from Richard Alfaro’s vineyard near Corralitos in the Santa Cruz Mountains, not far away from the Pacific Ocean and Aptos south of Santa Cruz itself, this hillside spot has great exposure, long days and cool marine influence, which seems to be a perfect match for the Gruner Veltliner, the signature white grape of Austria. The Vocal 2014 Gruner Veltliner Alfaro Vineyard starts with crisp apple, lemon/lime and white peach along with a bitter almond, faint herb and chalky stony notes in a light/medium bodied wine that feels taught and focused throughout, though gains in mouth feel with air and warmth and lingers with a touch of straw/lees, orange blossom, saline and kumquat. The first impression is one of steely dry shock, but quickly the palate unfolds with varietal pureness and zesty flavors that make this a really refreshing white best served with cuisine, it will be especially good with oysters, clams and mussels much the same way a Muscadet does!
($35 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive

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