2020 Daniel Bouland, Morgon “Les Delys” Cru Beaujolais, France.
Daniel Bouland, who has emerged as one of the region’s superstars, sources his Les Delys Morgon, from vines planted back in 1926, and this 2020 is as pure as it gets and has incredible fruit concentration that fills the palate with dark fruit character and gives a heady perfume on the nose, while having plenty of acidity and savory contrast that provides a fine balance. At first expressive and Gamay juicy, this wine builds beautifully in the mouth with black cherry, strawberry, blueberry, currant and plum fruit leading the way along with mineral, spice, walnut, violet and a subtle earthy tone, all of which accents this lovely Cru Beaujolais very nicely. This dark purple/ruby hued Gamay is joyous and while plush, it delivers a taut structure that should give tons of rewards to those that have patience, this can easily age a decade or more.
My take away from Bouland’s wines, past and present, especially this one, is that terroir or (their) unique sense of place shines through, this essence most likely could not be achieved anywhere else, and his wines highlights that eternal truth, this is like drinking the land’s soul, it’s something you feel and respect with every sip. Like Lapierre and Foillard, Bouland employs the traditional natural method of winemaking in his small cellar with 100% whole cluster semi carbonic ferments, using native yeast and aging here is done in large neutral old casks to promote transparency and allow for rustic old world charm. There’s so much to like here in Bouland’s collection, but in particular this cuvée has always been a favorite, coming from those old hand trained vines set on the granite soils that influences profile here. The set of Morgon bottlings are maybe the most compelling, but Bouland’s Cote de Brouilly is also worthy of your attention too.
($35 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive