2020 Weingut Wechsler, Riesling Trocken, Rheinessen, Germany.
The Wechsler Trocken is a beautiful value priced dry Riesling with exceptional purity and energy, from a winery I had never trued before, this basic offering impressed for its distinction and quality in the glass, it provided plenty of enjoyment, refreshment and thrills with bright racy citrus, crystalline mineral tones, wet rock and subtle floral aromas. This light to medium bodied crisply detailed Riesling opens nicely and gains concentration, depth and mouth watering saline, adding tangy peach, quince and green apple fruit, as well as a touch of citron, green tea, light tropical essences and sour lime. Coming from highly regarded Rheinhessen cru sites, Wechlser’s Trocken is sourced from organic and biodynamic vines that are at good elevation that allows for this wine’s excellent intensity and tension on the palate, it drinks on par with many much more expensive Erste Lage (Premier Cru) bottlings and this vintage looks to be good for early enjoyment and has plenty of age worthy structure. I tasted this Trocken at a special trade tasting put on by Wechsler’s importer The Source, but I absolutely plan to explore these wines in the future with a full meal, where I think I will be even more excited by their full range of flavors.
The Weingut Wechlser, based in Westhofen, the same rarified area as made famous by Philippe Wittmann and Klaus-Peter Keller, is led by the youthful talent of Katharina Wechsler, who is crafting her exciting wines from highly regarded parcels in the Rheinhessen’s most legendary vineyards, including the VDP Grosse Lage Morstein and Kirchspiel crus, with this basic Trocken seeing some Kirchspiel and Benn grapes. I must say, after tasting Katharina’s 2020 Trocken and her Kirchspiel single cru bottling, I was left spellbound by her wines and look forward to following her efforts. Wechlser uses, as noted, biodynamic methods in the vineyards and employs a light touch in the cellar to allow terroir to shine through with all native yeast or sponti fermentation(s) and extended lees aging (about 9 months) without the use of much or any wood. This Trocken was 100% stainless steel fermented and aged without any stirring from vines that are set n a combination of different soils including clay marls, limestone and loess that adds to the personality of Wechlser’s wines. Katharina uses low SO2 and the wines don’t feel muted, they are expressive and rewarding, with this one being a great way to discover this producer. I believe this Trocken will be a new favorite of mine and I plan to try it with a complimentary food pairing, where I believe it will excel, especially with sushi.
($26 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive