2020 Domaine Remi Jobard, Meursault “Les Narvaux” White Burgundy, France.
What an impressive treat this 2020 Remi Jobard Meursault Les Narvaux is, which I’m thrilled to have tried through some more kindness from my friend Alex Lallos who brought this one to me to sample, it is a stunning wine of depth and class that couldn’t be from any place else. This delicately floral and aromatic pale greenish/gold Meursault starts stony and mineral toned with classic matchstick, lemon and apple leading before opening up to hints of tropical fruit, peach and hazelnut, as well as taking on more concentration and dimension with air. Never wavering from its purity, there’s so much to enjoy here in this fine effort that gains some beautiful textural elegance, almost creaminess, without its laser focus, again this is why traditional and historic Burgundy still is so good. There’s an A list of white Burgundies and I have to think, from what I’ve tasted that Remi Jobard, who has flown under the radar, is now firmly part of that elite club. These sexy 2020s are maybe too expressive for some, but there’s no doubt they are very seductive and alluring wines, will this one leaning on the more restrained side, of the ones I’ve tried and certainly shows off its terroir.

Winemaker and winegrower Remi Jobard, who converted to organic and was certified in 2011, crafts unique expressions of Meursault, while he is going towards more mineral driven, brisk wines as is the movement here in Meursault. Interestedly in recent years he’s gone further by using large tight grained Austrian oak casks that seem to enhance vitality and the mineral tones, which I have mentioned in my prior reviews. I was thrilled to try an older vintage of Remi’s wines, thanks to a Dutch friend and huge Burgundy collector that gets these Jobard wines directly from the domaine, like the 2001 Genevrieres he shared with me! The son of Charles Jobard and nephew of Francis, who’s own son (Antoine) has famously taken over his winery, Remi has more quietly made a serious name for himself and these latest wines are truly stunning efforts. Remi ferments his wines a bit cooler and longer than most, sometimes even moving his barrels outside into the cold wintery weather to slow things down, in a two month process that he feels gives the wine a more lively feel and crisp details, and from what I have tasted so far here, I agree, this is a heightened and exceptionally pure Chardonnay. Narvaux, a non Premier Lieu-Dit, set on clay and limestone, doesn’t always get a lot of love or attention, but here it shines and it makes, in Remi Jobard’s hands, a very savvy buy.
($125 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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