2013 Poderi Oddero, Barolo DOCG, Piedmonte, Italy.
When I go Barolo there are a select group of producers I call my go to, and Oddero is one of those I always love and this 2013 is a beauty with classic Nebbiolo character, true Barolo structure, but finessed enough to be able to enjoy even it’s its youth with its acidity and tannin well hidden behind its pure fruit. Poderi Oddero has a collection of plots throughout Barolo, and while they do some amazing single Crus, I just love this DOCG blend coming from selected sites including Vigna Rionda in Serralunga d’Alba, Brunate in La Morra, Mondoca di Bussia Soprana in Monforte d’Alba, Rocche di Castiglione, and Fiasco and Villero in Castiglione Falletto, all of which are vineyards of great distinctive qualities that represent the region’s great terroirs. The primary fermentation is done in stainless steel to preserve purity and freshness, then the wine is raised in large used Slavonian and Austrian casks with some smaller lots using a bit of newer French oak barrels, then a majority selection is blended to form this Barolo. With the gifted winemaker Luca Vaglio, who’s been the lead here since 2001, Oddero winery has become one of the most prized traditional producers in Barolo, it was founded back in 1878 in La Morra around the town of Santa Maria and is still run by the Oddero family with vineyards on a combination of limestone, sandstone, clay and sandy soils. This 2013, which is more flamboyant than the 2012 and less powerful than 2010 has both the elegance and age worthy structure of each in a wine that finds the middle ground without losing out or missing anything, it’s an impressive Barolo with layers of blackberry, plum, poached cherry, damson plum and tart cranberry fruits along with melted black licorice, tar, minty herb as well as incense, dried violets, earth, chalk, leather and sandalwood. Air allows a textural mouth feel to come into view, and this well crafted Nebbiolo shines, though it needs patience and food to show its best, drink over the next decade and a half.
($39-50 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive