2015 Domaine Jerome Gradassi, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge, Rhone Valley, France.
One of my new favorite producers, Jerome Gradassi, who has been much more famous for his Michelin-starred L’Isle Sonnante restaurant located in Avignon, but after taking over a parcel of ancient Grenache that was once his grandfathers he taught himself how to make wine, very much influenced by natural wine, and through trial an error. Jerome has certainly achieved his goals in making an exciting and pure wine from his rustic cellar. The Gradassi Chateauneuf is vivid, sweet and sour (sort of peachy) with polished tannins and inner energy, gaining weight with air, it’s 75% old vine Grenache and 25% Mourvedre all whole cluster, in this cuvee Rouge, while he also does a tiny amount of Blanc made from almost all Clairette, which I consider a unicorn wine and nearly impossible to get, this red is made by throwing the grapes through the basement window in whole bunches and fermented with native yeast all in cement tanks, then because of the tiny space, he uses buckets to move the must to press! This takes about a week to do and then the wine rested in neutral barrels for just under a year before bottling. Jerome’s winery is the smallest in the region and his wines, a total throwback, they are savory, bright and tangy fresh, completely different from the top domaines in Chateauneuf, maybe that is why I’m so fond of his wines, they offer a completely unique vision of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but one that expresses the majestic terroir and personality of place and historic family traditions. While I was thrilled by the spicier, earthy 2014, this 2015 is more fruit driven, the vintage being much riper and legendary according to most critics, and it gives a broader impression on the palate with juicy pomegranate, bramble-berry, tart cherry and plum fruits along with basil, salted black licorice, terra-cotta slates, bitter lavender oil, floral notes and touches of pepper, caramel, wild/feral elements and garden picked strawberries. This Chateauneuf is best enjoyed young and fresh in my opinion and with food and friends, it’s Grenache character leads the way and flows in a smooth, thought zesty, fashion and it’s excessively forward without being jammy. Gradassi’s 8 acres of old vines set on the classic galet (round river stones) and sandy soils are producing charming wines and his handcrafted techniques without adding anything, except a tiny amount of sulfur, these micro bottlings are thrilling wines, less dense and extracted than his neighbors, give lots of pleasure in a less heavy way, look for Gradassi’s Chateauneuf(s) and cherish their old school style.
($48 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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