n.v. Lustau, Almacenista “Vides” Palo Cortado de Jerez, Solera Sherry, Jerez de la Fronterra, Spain.
This Lustau Palo Cortado “Vides” is one of the finest younger dry sherry expressions I’ve ever tasted, and it maybe be the best value in this style available, I know I would be hard pressed to name another that comes even close in the price class! Lustau and Equipo Navazos are really raising the profile of dry sherry and they both are releasing single Bodega offering that are mind-blowing in terms of complexity and quality, and this Palo Cortado especially delivers the goods. The Palo Cortado style means a dry sherry that starts under Flor, similar to fino, then quickly either naturally or on purpose switched into an Oloroso with oxidative aging, though originally thought to have been an ancient, this style has been making a come back, but still rare. The resulting wine is aromatic, nutty and richly detailed with weight on the palate, but with the vitality of an Amontillado, these unique sherries happy naturally only about 1-2% of the time, and this particular Lustau is from a single Bodega “Vides” near the ocean and from lots drawn from 50 Butts (Oak Cask) that average over 15 years. This beautiful Palo Cortado is a golden amber in the glass with a glorious nose of burn oranges, dried flowers, sea breezes, almond oil and pecans leading to a lavish palate of much the same with warm silkiness, verve and finesse, it is rich in the mouth, but still focused and crisp, nearly perfect with nice cut and length, this is heavenly stuff. The saline rich, chalky soils help the Palomino grapes express the terroir and the Vides Palo Cortado captures everything in the bottle and while fortified past 17% this dry and lovely sherry feels light and is easy to enjoy, it is great with rustic soups, sardines, cured meats and cheeses, be sure to search this wonderful Lustau out.
($30 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive