2011BondonioBarb2011 Olek Bondonio, Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmonte, Italy.
The 2011 Bondonio Barbaresco normale is a beautiful and full bodied Nebbiolo with lavishly layered complexity and real gravitas in substance, style and performance, sourced from Cru sites including Roncagliette and Starderi, close to Giorgio Rivetti’s La Spinetta plots. Olek makes some fantastic wines and his regular Langhe Nebbiolo is a steal, and his seriously endowed single Cru Roncagliette should be on any Barbaresco lovers list of must haves, but in particular this DOCG Barbaresco 2011 really shines and offers the best value for what you get in the glass, especially if you want to drink it young, the 2011 vintage was surprising generous, ripe and open. The Olek Bondonio Barbaresco starts with liquid roses, a deep garnet hue with brick/orange edges and a cascade of fruit, earth, spice and mineral elements, the palate is packed and there is s steady supply of firm, but not aggressive tannins, along with refined acidity. The mouth feel is big with black raspberry, damson plum, morello cherry, dried red currant and a touch of strawberry fruits, plus tar, melted licorice, truffle, chalk dust, saline, minty herbs, all spice, cedar and a hint of game. This forward Nebbiolo really shows it’s pedigree with constant terroir reminders and vigorous persistence, this is lovely and rich Barbaresco that even in it’s youth is poised and charming throughout, best though with food, drink this Bondonio from 2016 to 2026, very impressive again from this star producer.
($57 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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