2018 Domaine Testut, Chablis “Cote de Brechain” White Burgundy, France.
A newcomer to me, on the Chablis scene, Domaine Testut looks set for stardom with an impressive Lieu-Dit bottling from Cote de Brechain, tiny plot set of mostly alcareous clay along with some classic limestone from the Kimmeridgien era, making for a mineral and stone driven Chardonnay that certainly on the level of Premier Cru stars in the region and maybe a Grand Cru of two! Cyril Testut has presided over the family estate since 1998, so he’s been doing it while now, the domaine, which was established by his father Philippe Testut in 1967, Testuts have 13 hectares of vineyards (previsouly owned by Cistercian agronomist monks) located in the historic heart of Chablis. It’s a teddy selection of Grand Cru and Premier vines, mostly of which sit between the Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre and the Grand Cru Blanchots, not too shabby that. Those that like the domaines of Patrick Puize, Savary and Christophe will instantly recognize the style and quality in these Testut wine, and even those that are lucky enough to enjoy the greats, like Raveneau and Dauvissat will no doubt be thrilled by these wines. I was completely seduced by this Testut Cote de Brechain, just by it’s nose alone. This is cystalline Chablis that was fermented and aged between 9 and 12 months in tank without any wood, absolutely exceptional and a wine I plan on stocking up on.
Cyril Testut focuses on capturing terroir, especially the steely/flinty mineral essences and that shows through clearly in this stunning effort, this wine is a must try for Chablis enthusiasts, in particular, like me, that are searching out a great value. This 2018 Cote de Brechain is racy and vividly clear with a fantastic bouquet of lime blossom, wet river stones and orchard fruits that leads to a light/medium bodied palate of tangy green apple, lemon/lime and with chalky detailing with a real sense of purity of form and good natural acidity that lifts the flavors, but feels smooth in the mouth, adding a touch of hazelnut and a hint of clove spice. The Lieu-Dit Cote de Brechain, with 40 year old vines, is on the left bank on Serine river and faces east allowing a long hang time and ripe flavors, but with zesty acidity keeping things remarkably fresh, as this pretty wine shows. Brisk and refreshing the crisp Cote de Brechain opens up with a bit of air and gains textural elements, filling out all corners, while staying true and vibrant throughout. This wine can be easily enjoyed as a Summer sipper, though has structure and finesse to be a serious wine with a meal, search this stuff out!
($25 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive