2010 Koehler Ruprecht, Riesling Kabinett Trocken Kallstradter, Pfalz Germany.
I was really excited to try the Koehler Ruprecht Pfalz Trocken, and sadly I blew up the first bottle in my freezer, so after scraping Riesling ice from my refrigerator I had to postpone this review until the second bottle was more carefully chilled, and while I felt bad for my Riesling abuse, I am happy to report the Koehler Ruprecht was worth the wait. The 2010 vintage was a vintage of high acidity and rather difficult in Germany, but artisans found a way to craft some intriguing wines and Koehler Ruprecht even made some nice Trockens, in keeping with their house style. The 2010 Kallstradter Kabinett Trocken is shackling dry and brisk to start with severe lime and kumquat notes with loads of tangy acid and lip smacking crispness, though more interesting layers unfold in the glass with a core of mineral and chalk flowing throughout. Cooly steely to the core this refreshing Riesling builds a bit with air showing white peach, extract and grapefruit seeds with hints of white flowers and tangerine. This wine is very unique and very austere, leaving me wonder if that is it’s Kallstradter terroir coming through or if the native yeast gives it this character or what? All in all this is a well made and serious Riesling that while not overly easy to love, time will be needed and or food to bring out it’s more charming side, though Riesling Acid Freeks with really dig this in the short term, I will try a few more bottles in and over time to give my final blessings as it is sort of a beast at the moment I have high hopes.
($20 Est.) 88-92 Points, grapelive
Avail at www.sfwtc.com ($17.95)