2010 Fronton de Oro, Malpais, Gran Canaria DO, Canary Islands, Spain.
The Fronton de Oro Malpais is 70% Preto, with the remaining 30% divided evenly between Tintilla (Graciano) and Listán Negro. It is raised 4 months in French and American oak giving a bit more texture. Not much is written about Preto, but it seems to be more common in Dao region of Portugal and also found in the Asturias region of Spain where it is known as Albarin Nergo. Regardless of origins this grape makes for a racy and seductive red wine with medium weight and Pinot Noir like transparency and has exotic spice and floral notes along with volcanically charged minerallity. Every time I try the wines of Fronton de Oro I get geekier and geekier for these unique and rare treats, and this 2010 vintage seems to be the best yet, especially this 2010 Fronton de Oro Malpais from Gand Canary Island, the biggest of the Spanish Canaries which sit some 50 miles from the North African coast. The Malpais shows dried roses, hints of violets, red currants, cayenne pepper, chalky minerals and plum and strawberry fruits. Nice acidity, tannin and seriously saline elements help with lift and structure and push the fruit nicely and make this wine especially good with food, I’ve enjoyed it with sardines, pasta dishes and many different cheeses.
($30 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
Avail at www.sfwtc.com ($26)