2012 Domaine Garnier & Fils, Chablis, Vaudesir, Grand Cru White Burgundy, France.
This dynamic, and new to me, estate is making a hell of a fine Chablis, and this glorious Grand Cru is nearly off the charts good, a not to miss wine for those with a sense of adventure and a thirst for something new on the scene. The brothers Jerome and Xavier run the domaine with Jerome working the vines, using organic practices and nature friendly methods, while Xavier is the cellar master and winemaker here, he uses traditional techniques, focusing on ripe fruit, native yeast fermentations and no new wood, preferring large old cask and not using stainless tanks for the Crus. This all adds up to exotic flavors, richness and transparent transmission of terroir, with brisk acidity, salty notes and steely mineral coming through from the chalky top soil and Kimmeridgian Limestone base, all this shines through especially so in the 2012 Vaudesir Grand Cru, a gorgeous pure Chardonnay that was aged a full 22 months in barrel and a magical wine of class and grace. The mineral and energy bring beautiful detail to life here and the dense fruit add pleasure and length, this Vaudesir has drive, deep layers and a sexy golden hue showing lime, white flowers, green melon, lemon curd, grapefruit, apple and white peach with hints of tropical essence, clove, saline, brine and chalky wet river stone. A touch of straw, wood spice and hazelnut, plus brioche add to the complexity of flavors and a crisp vibrancy runs throughout this fantastic Chablis, drink from 2015 to 2020, imported by Martines Wines.
($78 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive