2011 Julian Labet, Trousseau “En Chalasse” Cotes du Jura, France.
I waited a long time to get my hands on this Trousseau, and sadly by the time I did, there was nothing left to buy, as Labet made only a tiny amount and didn’t end up with much to import to the USA, though a few of his other wines did make it and are a tad easier to find, and importer Charles Neal is trying to get more. So, with great bittersweet expectations I give you my long awaited thoughts of the natural, artisan crafted Trousseau by Julian Labet, well, it is a solid effort, though it does fall short of his prior wines, and I would recommend getting his Metis cuvee, the blend of Pinot, Poulsard and Troussseau, as it is a more complex and complete wine, both 2011 and 2012 vintages, and they will be more available, but that all said I really did like the 2011 En Chalasse Cotes du Jura Trousseau and if by chance you do come across this rare wine you should get it, it is pretty and exotic with a wild herbal and red peach core along with delicate color and flavors, it is a pale and light red that shows faint earthy tones and layers of soft red fruits. There is a strawberry, fennel, celery seed and mineral spice that comes through in the glass and the finish is crisp, like a pinot noir with nice acidity and good length. As with most natural wines, best to drink young, as in within the first year or so, or if you want to give these time to mature, you’ll need a perfect cellar, as temp changes can really affect these wines, best to drink from 2013 to 2016. I am very impressed with Julian Labet’s wines and enjoy them, but they certainly with not be for everyone, and Jura wines in general are not mainstream wines, though they are very interesting and intriguing offering a unique style, sense of place and wildness that appeals to the adventurous.
($28 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive
