2013 Hiedler, Grüner Veltliner, Löss, Qualitätswein Trocken, Kamptal Austria.
The Hiedler, a Terry Theise selection, Gruner Loess is a shinning example of vintage and terroir with bright mineral intensity, laser like precise detail and tangy crisp acidity that is a core of zesty energy and power. This is a dry and robust white that highlights the charms of Kamptal with serious focus and dense extract, this vintage really sticks out and offers a glimpse of Gruner at it’s best and finest character, and after almost 15 years of exploring Austrian wines, this vintage is among my very favorites if not my very favorite. The Hiedler Loess Gruner starts with grapefruit, minty herbs, almond oil, crunchy stones/gravel and white flowers leading to a sizzling palate of lemon/lime, bitter green melon, peach flesh and quince. There is a white tea, and oyster shell note that lingers with a hint of tropical essence that flitters in the background and it finishes briskly, dusty dry and salty, look for more fleshy qualities to come as it fills out over the next year or so, drink from 2015 to 2018, this is lovely and pleasing Gruner Veltliner and another solid effort from Hiedler.
($24 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
avail at www.sfwtc.com ($21.95)