2012 Clos des Rocs, Pouilly-Loche, Les Quatre Saisons, White Burgundy, France.
The Macon is one of the most exciting areas in Burgundy for new finds, especially for value priced offerings, and the Pouilly area in particular seeing some amazing wines, like this wonderfully expressive Chardonnay from Clos des Rocs in Pouilly-Loche. The “Four Seasons” comes from two plots of 40 year old vines set in clay soils just to the northwest of the village of Loche, not far from Pouilly-Fuisse, and this cuvee is half stainless steel and half in neutral oak barrels. The wine itself is exciting and has exotic elements, it even feels oil rich, but with good acidity and vivid flavors starting with pretty white flowers, verbena, melon and hints of brine/saline leading to a lovely palate of lime, tangerine, pear and soft apple fruits, light mineral tones, leafy/earth, a hint of hazelnut, wet stones and lots of zesty meter lemon and subtle tropical essences. There is good vigor, vibrancy and lift to be found though it does fill out in the mouth with plush creaminess, impressive textural feel and interesting terroir character, drink from 2015 to 2018, this was a good showing of a well crafted Chardonnay from a producer that I’ve not previously sampled, Clos des Rocs is imported by Rosenthal, and I highly recommend checking them out, both this and their Monopole estate bottling were performing excellently, very serious and delicious Maconnais!
($29 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
