2011 Domaine Marcel Deiss, Rouge, Alsace, France.
This winery has committed itself to terroir and of expression of place over that of single varietals, over the past 10 years Domaine Marc Deiss has come to re-define Cru and village sites in Alsace and has brought the art of field blends back to this historic region, it is interesting to see this, and relate it back to California where some exciting wineries are doing the same thing, like Bedrock, Bucklin and of course Ridge with their Zins and black grape cuvees. Domaine Marcel Deiss and young Mathieu Deiss seem like mavericks with their multi-varietal wines, but the results are fascinating and the wines are soulful and intriguing, especially the Grand Cru whites, but even this Alsace Rouge, which is mostly Pinot Noir, really is a stylish and interesting wine. While, I’ve had a few vintages of the red, it is always a bit different each vintage and certainly the 2011 feels the freshest to date with bright and spicy flavors and a light to medium body, it is much less funky and earthy than in the past, not that they were bad before, it just seems Mathieu’s style is evolving and more expressive. The 2011 Rouge starts with peppered raspberry, dried roses and sweet herbs leading to a core of cherry and plum fruit along with a lift of acidity, a mineral tone and hints of earth, saline and wet stones. Everything is poised, silky and gathers richness in the mouth leaving a long sweet and sour aftertaste. Drink over the the next 2-5 years, and be sure to give the wines of Domaine Marcel Deiss a go, these are lovely and unique examples of France’s Alsatian terroir.
($30-40 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive
