LassaigneLaCollineN.V. Jacques Lassaigne, Champagne “La Colline inspiree” Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, Montgueux, France.
Emmanuel Lassaigne looks set to be one of Champagne’s brightest stars, this tiny grower producer in Montgueux (in Aube) does some fantastic Chardonnay Champagne from chalky limestone vineyards that have 25 to 45 year old vines. The cuvees he does are all zero dosage and mostly intensely dry Extra Brut in style, but these are seriously endowed bubbly(s) with striking opulence and depth, and while vigorous and precise they have a similarity to Krug and Vilmart with exotic notes and richness. While there is an up rise in pure Pinot Meunier in single vineyard grower Champagnes and it’s all the rage, with good reason, it is important not to forget just how great these Chardonnay wines can be, especially these Jacques Lassaigne offerings from Emmanuel Lassaigne, and in particular this sexy La Colline inspire Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs. The La Colline inspire is wood raised, one of the only wines Emmanuel does in oak, it uses old Chablis barrels, and it shows in the density and fullness, though still firmly dry and mineral driven, this is wow effect Champagne with layers of flavor and structure, beautifully detail and gorgeous from start to finish featuring lemon oil, banana, clove, steely mineral, spiced apple, pineapple and hazelnuts. Hints of saline, earth and crushed stones add to the complexity, this is a Champagne of amazing craftsmanship and controlled power with elegance and classic quality, this is blow your mind stuff, you could drink this wine still (flat) and it would never miss a beat, but with it’s heavenly mousse it is utterly glorious, it should age well too, but it would be more than difficult to be patient here, it is just stunning, drink from 2015 to 2020.
($90 Est.) 96+ Points, grapelive

By admin