2012 Mathieu Coste, MC2, Coteaux du Giennois Biau, Villemoison, Loire Valley, Red, France.
A new comer to the quality natural wine scene Mathieu Coste of the Loire Valley has been making his own wine for about 6 vintages now, and I recently discovered his wine at a trade show in San Francisco, not much was to be learned, but I was highly impressed with what I tasted, especially this Gamay and Pinot Noir blend from Coteaux du Giennois Biau. This tiny appellation is across the river and south of Sancerre and the hamlet of Villemoison is where Coste calls home, he was trained in Bordeaux and made wine at the Coop in Pouilly sur Loire, he got his personal break when he took over the estate of Alain Paulat, an organic farmer, who’s grapes were almost always the best coming into the coop. Mathieu’s wines are made with fanatical detail and are delicately nuanced, made with natural winemaking techniques (low sulphur-no additions) and from total organic farming, he uses whole cluster, native yeast and ferments in cement vats, before aging in stainless tanks, making for clear, pure and bright wines. The 2012 MC2 is Pinot Noir and Gamay with crunchy stones and mineral tones, red fruits, spice and shows plenty of vigor and intensity in a fine light/medium weight wine. The nose has earthy floral notes along with dusty red currants leading to a lively palate of raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruits plus, minty herb, tea, lavender and pepper spice, after a bit of time in the glass there reveals anise, plum, chalky/stones, cinnamon stick and cured meat. The wine is tightly focused and vividly clear throughout, finishing with soft fruity character and a touch of saline savoriness, this is delightful wine and a name to watch for, drink now through 2017.
($28 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive