2007 Rovellotti, Ghemme “Chioso dei Pomi” DOCG, Piedmonte, Italy.
The northern Piedmonte region is really becoming the hot spot for great Nebbiolo wines, especially the areas of the Colli Novaresi, these are really wonderfully expressive wines with depth and complexity. The Ghemme wines had only been mild curiosities in the past, but now these wines are as serious as many Barolo or Barbaresco, and it certain cases, like this Rovellotti can reach amazing levels of quality, this 2007 is simply as good as Nebbiolo can get and rivals it’s much more famous cousins from Alba and Asti. The DOCG in Ghemme means the wine must age 20 months in wood and 9 months in bottle prior to release, and they also allow the blending in of Vespolina known locally as either Uva Rara or Bonarda di Gattinara (though not related to two other grapes named Bonarda in Italy or the Bonarda in Argentina!) this adds unique character to the wines here, it gives the Nebbiolo, known native here as Spanna, some lift and exotic notes. The Rovellotti Gheme Chioso die Pomi had an extra long maceration to extract structure, pigment and flavor, helping endure it’s long 20 months in wood, but it still has delicate color, showing a pale orange rim around a light ruby hue and this wine is impeccably crafted with wonderfully pure layers, classic Nebbiolo power and elegance, heightened tones and a stylish long finish. The wine starts with bright red fruits, wilted roses, Asian spices and glorious mineral elements leading to a robust and taught palate with firm, but refined tannins that with air feel ripe and silky with just a faint dustiness, there is plenty of cherry, damson plum, raspberry and strawberry fruit to please, plus added interest coming from hints of truffle, dried fig, cedar, lavender, tar, briar, salted black licorice and a whiff of earth, game and a lingering tangy currant aftertaste. This is dynamic and terrific Nebbiolo from Rovelletti, I thought the 2006 was a stunner, and this vintage might even surpass that glorious effort, this is truly a spectacular wine, drink from 2016 to 2024 for the best rewards, but I have no problem just drinking it now myself, and certainly would be a hard not to open a few bottle sooner vs later!
($48 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
