2009 Remelluri, Rioja Blanco, Spanish White.
This amazing white has numerous varietals, including Chardonnay, Marsanne and Roussanne plus other grapes that all make it a fantastic wine to try and enjoy. Telmo Rodriguez, the master winemaker has created a wine with the style and depth of a great Hermitage Blanc or Chateauneuf Blanc, it reminds me of both Chaputier Ermitage Le Meal and Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc, two of my all time favorite white wines. This 2009 Remelluri Blanc is a striking and wonderful wine of class and richness, unlike any white Rioja you’ll ever see or taste, with peach, apricot, apple and lemon/lime fruits, clarified cream, liquid minerals and hints of butterscotch plus a touch of honeycomb, this beauty is pure pleasure. The 2007 was a bit learner and surely has it’s admirers, but I adore the 2009 and find it ravishing and the finish goes for miles. In some ways it also reminds me of the Gassac Blanc, though I think I might give the edge to Telmo’s Blanco.
($40 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
Wine of the Day
2010 El Molino, Chardonnay, Rutherford, Napa Valley.
This stunning Meursault like Chardonnay from El Molino is a seriously good wine that will continue to develop for another 3 to 5 years and drink well over the next decade. Made from estate grapes in Rutherford, this old went clone Chardonnay, which is raised on it’s gross lees and didn’t go through mall, is pure class and elegance from start to finish. The nose has citrus blossoms, brioche, golden fig and touch of hazelnut leading to a full palate of apple, pear, white peach and honeysuckle with lemon curd and a subtle toast. The acidity keeps everything fresh and drives this pretty wine and medium toast French oak, Francois Freres, frames the fruit perfectly. This Chardonnay is a fantastic treat, and I was left utterly impressed, what a sublime effort, a big bravo to the El Molino team, and their 2009 Pinot is a stunner too.
($50 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
Wine of the Day
2010 Penner-Ash, Pinot Noir “Dussin Vineyard” Willamette Valley.
Lynn Penner-Ash has turned a tough vintage into a dream wine with her estate Dussin Vineyard Pinot, she fashioned a masterpiece that shows depth, richness and complexity. Penner-Ash, along with Beaux Freres, Ken Wright, Bergstrom and Shea, is crafting some of Oregon’s best wines and this 2010 Dussin is one of the best of the vintage so far. The nose is floral, spicy and full of mineral complexity leading to a mouth full of rich and zesty red fruits, and after a touch of air a force of black fruits emerge with blackberry, plum and currants coming through while dried rose petals, pepper and truffle float in the background. The finish has nice French oak shadings with vanilla, baking spices, mocha and lingering cherry notes. The texture is lush and silky, even though there is good acidity, feeling like velvet and this wine has touches of earth and briar that highlight the terroir. This is an amazing wine to enjoy young and a remarkable effort for the vintage, drink now through 2015.
($60-65 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
Wine of the Day
2010 Terre Nere, Etna Rosso, Sicily (Italian Red)
This beautiful and delightful Nerello Mascalese from Terre Nere comes across like a Pinot Noir, with medium weight and silky layers. Nerello Mascalese, a native grape to Sicily and part of the DOC Etna Rosso is believed to be a cross of Sangiovese and a locate grape, though no conclusive proof has been confirm, but regardless there are some similar qualities, even though Nerello Mascalese feels softer and more elegant when done right, and Terre Nere without question does it right, and their 2010 basic Etna Rosso is a lovely wine. The nose is spicy with an earthy and floral element leading to a palate that includes strawberry, rose tea and scorched rock mineral tones with tangy plum and cherry as well, while hints of lavender and fennel add to the complexity. This is the lighter side of Sicily in the glass, with modest alcohol and refreshing acidity, you could even serve slightly chilled and it is a wonderful lunch time wine.
($28 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
Sonoma International Film Festival Review
Jorge Maique, Co-president of Habanos S.A
Sonoma International Film Festival Lights Up With “Cigars – the Heart and Soul of Cuba.”
By Bradley Gray
Havana. Just mention of the word sends any cigar smoker waxing poetic. It’s a city of a different time, and a pilgrimage to this tobacco Mecca is something that all cigar enthusiasts wish to make. But it usually is just that – a wish.
While waiting for your lucky star, make a point to see the film “Cigars – the Heart and Soul of Cuba.” This captivating film recently played at the 15th Annual Sonoma International Film Festival to a full house. This Festival, based in the heart of California wine country, is rapidly becoming one of the most important film festivals on the planet.
The film was written and directed by James Orr, who has a fair amount of Hollywood success under his belt (Three Men And A Baby, Mr. Destiny, Father Of The Bride, Sister Act II, etc.). James Suckling, former senior editor of Wine Spectator and Cigar Aficionado magazines, hosts it. Both gentlemen were present at the screening.
It offers an amazingly comprehensive look at cigar production in Cuba. From seeds, to harvest, drying, fermenting, rolling and packaging, every aspect is covered. Suckling visits the top growers and really becomes involved with the people and personalities that, in Suckling’s opinion, make these cigars that much more special.
The thing that really stands out about the Cuban cigar process is just how labor intensive it is. Pride and intense quality control are present every step of the way. There are colorful scenes from the “heart of the factory” - the rolling room, and mysterious darkness in the drying barns. Most of film is vibrant and bright, as one might expect from Cuba. The tobacco fields glimmer in emerald green, and closeness of family life on the plantation is expertly captured in this film.
James Suckling, host of “Cigars - the Heart and Soul of Cuba.”
Tobacco, like wine grapes, thrives in certain microclimates. Suckling takes us on a journey through Cuba’s premier tobacco growing region, Pinar Del Rio, in search of “Vega Fina,” or the best tobacco. He finds it at Finca Alejandro Robaina, where beautiful cinematography captures the age-old traditions of the workers.
Later, Suckling visits with Jorge Maique, one the smartest men in the cigar business. Maique is the Co-president of Habanos S.A the company in charge of distributing and marketing Cuban cigars worldwide. Maique explains; “Tobacco is a history and a tradition as well. When you work in tobacco, it’s like something special is coming inside (of you). It’s in your blood. We are happy, because we love what we do.” Maique tips his hat to Alejandro Robaina, the recently passed “Grandfather of Cuban Cigars.”
“They work up to the age of 90 or 95 years old. Even if they were sitting at home, and couldn’t walk, but they walk only to see the tobacco plantation, just to feel the smell, just to touch the tobacco leaf. What this means? Passion! For us, it’s like a religion.”
The purpose of the film is to pinpoint just what makes a Cuban cigar so good, and Suckling finds that it’s the workers. “The qualities of the producers actually get into the product, and the product is them,” he concludes.
The film is sewn together by a fantastic soundtrack of traditional Cuban music that takes you straight to old Havana.
When you do watch the movie, make sure you have a fine cigar close by. If you have stamina and patience, you might be able to make it to the end of the film before lighting up.
Wine of the Day
2011 J. Heinrich, Blaufrankisch “Deutschkreutz” Burgenland, Austrian Red.
This seductive red is made with Austria’s premier red grape, Blaufrankisch and come from Burgenland which is located in the middle of Austria and is more known for red wine than the area on the Danube where you find Gruner Veltliner and Riesling. Heinrich’s 2011 Blaufrankisch is a dark almost pulp hued red that reminds me of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc and Piedmont Barbera if the two were ever blended, and I love the vivid dark fruit and juicy acidity that this wine delivers. This wine is a steal too, with most quality Blaufrankisch costing much, much more, and I am looking for to enjoying a few more bottles of this gem. The nose is floral and spicy with blueberries and violets along with hints of pepper and sweet herbs before a bight palate of black plum, cherry and currant fruit with a spicy kick and soft mineral tones. While not intense of terribly complex it offers up lots of pleasure and is a fun wine to enjoy with many dishes or hard cheeses.
($18 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive
Wine of the Day
2011 Arregi, Getoriako Txakolina, Basque White, Spain.
Another summer gem, this 2011 Arregi will delight your senses with tingling freshness and lime flower essences. Crisp and tangy with puckering citrus, green apple and mineral tones, this Txakolina is perfect for hot afternoons and warm evenings with fish, cheese or savory salads. Basque whites are glorious food wines and the zesty dry flavors, light body and vibrant acidity can’t help but bring a smile to your face. I especially love these wines with oysters and or salty cured fish like sardines. Not always easy to find or pronounce, Txakolina is a very pleasing wine, and this Arregi is a great example, look for it.
($22 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
Available at www.sfwtc.com
Wine of the Day
2011 Weingut Willi Brundlmeyer, Riesling “Kamptaler Terrassen” Kamptal, Austria.
One of the great domaines of Austria, Brundlmeyer makes some of the finest wines of the Kamptal region on the Danube, west of Vienna in Austria’s prime Gruner growing area. Brundlmeyer does a famed Gruner Veltliner, but also ultra cool Sparkling wines, Pinot Noir and Riesling. The 2011 “Kamptaler Terrassen” is their entry level Riesling and is a dry and vibrant wine that is what Austrian Riesling is all about with bright flavors and crisp finish. This vintage is one of the best yet for this wine and it has loads of character and vigor, the nose starts with citrus blossom and green apple leading to a mineral laced palate of lime, pineapple and apricot with hints of spice and a faintest hint of petrol. The finish is lengthy and severely brisk and dry, making this wine very flexible and perfect for summer refreshment.
($24 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
Wine of the Day
2010 Domaine Francois Chidaine, Montlouis “Clos du Breuil” Loire Valley, France.
Francois Chidaine’s flagship Chenin Blanc from Montlouis is a lovely and savvy wine that shows terroir and vivid flavors. Chidaine, like Nicholas Joly, is dedicated to Biodynamic wine growing and his passion shows in his wines that always highlight rich fruit and vibrant acidity. The depth and roundness of his wines set him apart from most of the pack and I find his wines tend to age well, even though I like them a bit more fresh and young. Chiadaine also does a value line from Touraine, featuring a beautiful Sauvignon, a sharp Rose and a Pinot Noir, as well as a wonderful line of Vouvray, but it is this Montlouis “Clos du Breuil” that I love best, especially this 2010 vintage. The year brought near perfection for the Loire, wines that were ripe, but with sublime balance and life, these are amazingly pure wines and Chidaine does not disappoint with this one. The 2010 Montlouis “Clos du Breuil” has a mouth filling burst of peachy fruit and a tangy citrus freshness, while the nose shows liquid mineral, pear skin and hint of honey. White peach, a touch of tropical fruit, chalk, lime and green apple all play parts and linger on the finish.
($30 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
Wine of the Day
2009 Klee, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon (Roots Wine)
Chris Berg’s third label of Roots Wine, the Klee is a wonderful value and a beautifully detailed Pinot Noir from select sites in the Willamette Valley in the heart of Oregon’s prime growing region. It is hard to find a Pinot Noir of this quality for around Twenty bucks, but Berg certainly delivers with this vintage of Klee and I highly recommend finding some to enjoy over the next few years, especial as 2010 and 2011 were very difficult years in Oregon. The 2009 Klee Pinot is floral toned with loads of character and vibrant flavors that include raspberry, black cherry, plum and Asian spices with mineral notes. The nose leads with rose petals, hints of violets and a touch of oak toast before a silky texture on the palate and a lingering finish, while nice balancing acidity holds everything together.
($20 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
Avail. at www.sfwtc.com ($19.95)