2020 Terrevive Bergianti, San Vincent, Rosé Sparkling Wine, Emilia Romagna, Italy.
Named after the patron saint of wine, the dry and zesty “San Vincent” is made entirely from the local Sorbara, which, according to the winery, may in fact be related to Pinot Meunier, but little evidence of that can be found, and is mainly known for its presence in Lambrusco wines. Most commonly accepted, is that the grape Lambrusco di Sorbara is an indigenous variety of ancient origin that most likely was a crossing of wild grapes in this region. The Lambrusco di Sorbara produces ruby red colored wines with a pinkish froth and is the lightest of the four red varieties of Lambrusco near the village of Sorbara, between the Secchia and Panaro rivers, around the better known and historic town of Modena, where it is a cherished and celebrated for its delicacy and vitality. Sorbara is regarded as the best of the various specified Lambrusco clones, though due to its natural small yields it tends to be blended with other varietals, especially in full DOC wines, its best qualities include its highly fragrant and floral character, its elegant underlying minerality and its zippy acidity. Winemaker, Gianluca Bergianti employs a low-tech ancient method, adding grape must and nothing else to his dry wines as they’re being bottled for their secondary fermentation. Then Bergianti allows the leftover natural yeasts devour the sugars in the must, creating a gentle natural effervescence in each bottle, which is completed in about three months. This fabulous Rosé sparkling shows fresh ruby grapefruit, tart cherry, gauva, strawberry and peach fruits along with snappy spices, dried herbs, mineral tones and a fine dry saline stoniness all lifted by the vibrant and zesty beading of the creamy mousse. This region has seen an unbelievable rise in quality and elegance with this Terrevive wine, by Gianluca Bergianti, along with Roberto Maestri’s Quarticello, Della Volta and Cleto Chiarli Vecchia Modena, all are very serious and delicious efforts.
Bergianti’s “San Vincent” is a wine made from red grapes produced with the ancestral method of re-fermentation in the bottle and was born as a result of a trip to the Champagne region of France. At first this wine was produced to be enjoyed during the festivals dedicated to San Vincent, the patron saint of vineyards and winemakers, but has now become a wine with worldwide appeal and highly sought after by enthusiasts. The grapes, which are all organically grown, come from vines grown on this regions loamy soils and raised with non intervention methods. After hand harvesting of the Sorbara grapes, fermentation occurs spontaneously with native yeasts in concrete tanks, with the second or re-fermentation happening in the bottle. There was, as the winery notes, no clarification or filtration and only a very small dose sulfur before bottling. The San Vincent frizzante rosato spent two years on the lees, which adds a sensation of depth and gives a richness to the palate. While the local wines, some of which are bottled under the Lambrusco rules, traditionally come in frizzante and spumante forms, and in various levels of sweetness, but Bergianti has gone their own way, inspired by Champagne Boulard, a grower producer of delicious bubbly and maybe why they want to believe there is a relation between Sorbara and Meunier. Gianluca’s “San Vincent” Rosato Frizzante comes from and speaks of Terrevive’s immaculately tended vineyards, all set on the zone’s typical sandy loamy soils, highlighting his obsession with working holistically with the land, it certainly has a sense of place. This crisp bubbly goes great with food, everything from spicy pasta dishes to sea food stews or shellfish, as well as being fun all on its own, this is quality and impressive stuff! These modern Lambrusco Frizzante wines are not your Grandpa’s cheap, rustic and rough versions, these new Lambruscos are stylish and have complex delicacy, I highly recommend discovering this new generation, small production, hand crafted examples.
($35 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive