Wine of the Day June 24, 2013

2011Lovmor2011 Alfredo Maestro Tejero, white Albillo “Lovamor” (Ribera del Duero) Valladolid, Spain.
Known for his inventive and rebel ways in the Ribera del Duero, Alfredo Maestro has become a leader of the natural wine movement, believing in organic vineyards and using no additives, he has crafted some of the most interesting wines in the region. Over the last few years I have fallen in love with his remarkable Tempranillo wines, but this rare and thoroughly captivating white is one to search out, it is seductive and intriguing with vigor, depth and playfulness. The 2011 Lovamor is from the unique Albillo grape, almost unheard of outside the Ribera del Duero region, and comes from amazing 100-120 Year Old vines planted on Clay and Limestone soils at about 3,000 feet above sea level, all of which add to the special terroir character found in this wine. Maestro varies the skin contact, and it was believed the 2011 saw about 6 full days on the skins on this white, fermenting in small stainless steel to preserve freshness, so it doesn’t go sherry like or funky, while gaining a deeper golden/straw hue and powerful intensity. There is a slight almond/pecan note, but it is very subtle, the wine is zesty with orange, lemon/lime, white peach and apple skin notes coming through, bright acidity gives an electrical charge, but the wine fills out like a white Burgundy on the palate and has a nice saline/savory note as well. Chalky mineral, stones and clove spice add to the whole experience here and given time this wine turns very expressive and turns on the charm leaving a lush nectarine on the lengthy finish, this is pure geeky heaven.
($34 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive