2013 Guimaro, Mencia, Finca Meixeman, Ribeira Sacra, Spain.
Galicia’s Pedro Rodriguez makes some of the most thrilling wines in Spain, his Guimaro Mencia reds are something special and they get better and better with each vintage, based in the Ribeira Sacra his small winery is on a roll. Pedro has been greatly influenced by Raúl Pérez of Bierzo, one of Spain leading winemakers and one of the true unique characters in wine, who has leant young Pedro Rodriguez a guiding hand, helping Guitar become one of the most sought after Mencias in the region, Rodriguez employs ancient and mostly natural methods traditional to this old region that was even highly regarded during Roman times, wild yeast, low sulphur, used oak or no wood and some stem inclusion winemaking is employed, while the grapes are organic and from some of the most dramatic vineyard sites imaginable, the Ribeira Sacra looks like the Mosel region of Germany with a little of France’s Cote-Rotie thrown in! The slate and granite schist soils, steep terraces and cooler western climate help make these wines some of the most stunning medium weight wines in the world with gorgeous flavors the bounce from the Loire to Burgundy in style with maybe a touch of the Jura as well, but remaining uniquely terroir driven and speak in Gallego, the language of Galicia! The 2013 Guimaro Finca Meixeman is a single field blend, based on and mainly Mencia, it also has native varietals that include Caiño, Merenzao (Trousseau), Souson and others, it was fermented with 40% whole clusters from 70 years old vines in the family’s original vineyard at over 400 meters up the slope, it shows vigorous intensity and depth with earthy notes, striking mineral and flinty spices. The palate is firm and shows the cool climate acidity, and 2013 was cool, making for some scary late picking in October, but that long hang-time has paid off with complexity and depth in this very dark Mencia, it shows black currant, vibrant cherry, wild plum, dried violets, peppery spice and hints of game, basil and cedar. This Finca Meixeman is quite tight and tannic to start and needs time to wake up in the glass, but when it does it really takes off, amazing length and layering comes through with sexy florals, blue fruits and textures. The 2013 Meixeman is a classic vintage with Atlantic influences shinning through, maybe not as exotic as 2011 was, but certainly one that will endure and gain with time in the cellar, best from 2018 to 2028, another beautiful and stylish wine from Guimaro, be sure to search this one out, only about 300 cases were made!
($40 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
