Grapelive Wine of the Day
By Kerry Winslow
2009 Julien Labet “en billat” Poulsard, Jura Red, France.
This Poulsard is like a lovers soft kiss to your neck, silky and lingering with a hint of electricity. Julien Labet is making some exciting wines from the Jura and is following the natural wine movement, or maybe he is pushing it forward. Poulsard is delicate and thin skinned, making it less likely as a main component in the reds of the region, it usually gets blended with Pinot Noir and or Trousseau Noir, but it still remains the second most planted grape in the Jura, even if is used mainly in roses and even sparkling, as well in the blends. Poulsard has been a staple in the Jura since the 1500’s, and it is also found in Begay where it is blended with Gamay. There is now even a totally white skinned Poulsard that makes light aromatic wines. While that may be interesting, it is this 2009 Julien Labet Poulsard that steals the show, and elevates Poulsard to new heights with pretty color, texture and lovely perfume. I must say, I am becoming a big fan of Labet, and as mentioned in an earlier review, his 2010 Metis is an amazing wine, I just might be hooked on Jura! This 2009 “en billet” starts with dried flowers and rose petals with some earth, red spices and minerals on the nose before a palate of strawberry and plum fruits. I must say, if tasted blind I would guess this was a Cru Beaujolais, most like a Fleurie I think with fine Gamay like character with violets, a hint of blue fruits and walnut. Pretty Pinot like round and smooth texture and finesse all still vibrant and lively. I went back to this bottle 24 hours later and found it even better with bright flavors and a longer finish, without any hint of degradation at all, a very impressive wine and elegant winemaking to be sure. Imported by Charles Neal Selections.
($30 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive
Available at www.sfwtc.com ($27.95)