2015 Denis Jamain Domaine de Reuilly, Pinot Gris, Reuilly, Loire Valley, France.
While not technically a Rose really, the skin contact Jamain Pinot Gris has a pale orange/salmon pinkish hue and is as refreshing and compelling as any serious pinks. I always look forward to this attractive organic wine and it has a cult like following making somewhat difficult to secure, imported by Kermit Lynch, this Reuilly is from the eastern Loire Valley which gained an AOC for Sauvignon Blanc back in 1937, then for Pinot Gris, Rose and Red, mostly Gamay and Pinot Noir in 1961, grown on sandy gravel with an underpinning of Kimmeridgian Marl (limestone) and clay, which adds intensity and life to the vibrant wines of the region. Vigneron Denis Jamain has resurrected the historic Domaine de Reuilly in recent years and it is now renown for it’s quality and mineral driven wines, in particular this crisp blush Pinot Gris, which gets it’s color from the natural pinkish/grey skins of this varietal, it’s a unique version, almost a yellow wine, but thought of as a Rose, though in reality neither! The mind and senses fool you into seduction here with hints of rosewater, almost summer melon, wild herb and white cherry while tangy apple and appleskin great you on the palate with steely liquid mineral, wet river stones, dry chalk and a flows of peach, zesty citrus and sea mist unfold. This is as brisk and as acid filled as you can get without being harsh or feeling like you stuck a finger in a light socket, in fact this is brilliant delicious wine, well balanced, crafted and highly entertaining and enjoyable, especially with cuisine, oysters and or sipping in the sunshine with chèvre!
($22 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive