2014 Thibaud Boudignon, Anjou Blanc, Loire Valley, France.
With a cult like following, the wines of Thibaud Boudignon are almost impossible to find on wine shop shelves, so it was a thrill to get a chance to try this release of his Anjou Blanc, a wonderfully dry expression of Chenin Blanc from the Loire’s Anjou region. In the past I have admire Boudignon’s crisply brisk Rosé of Cabernet Franc and his severe/svelte Savennieres, which is a completely different animal to this lovely, almost generous and sexy Anjou Blanc, which is wonderfully textured and with amazing detail and length. The charismatic and talent Thibaud Boudignon is all biodynamic and uses only native (indigenous) yeasts for his whites and no malo, but with this one he does use about 30% new oak with 350L and 700L barrels, all crafted from 100% Chenin Blanc from 35 year old vines set on shallow soils comprised of grey schist and rhyolite (volcanic) that give these wines they unique character and profile which is very different from areas like Vouvray and Montlouis. The 2014 Anjou Blanc is at first lush, textural and direct, rather forward, surprisingly frankly, but with air this wine’s true core and depth is revealed with complex layers emerging and with a more spicy and mineral toned element taking a bigger role, while pretty peach, pear and white fig plays lead on the palate along with unsweetened honey, citrus blossoms and earthy gooseberry take a lesser part. The glycerin level is significant and hedonistic, especially given the vintage, this is a joyously full expression of Chenin that makes a serious impact, in many ways like a Premier Cru white Burgundy, such is the feel and class found here, you can certainly understand why it is so hard to get!
($30 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
